Blazer with Decorative Sleeves
A women's fitted hip-length jacket with a notched collar, a one-button front, curved princess seams and short two-piece sleeves with pleats at the cap and overlapping "tails" at the hem. The body is lined.
When To Wear
- For the office in spring and summer, over a sleeveless dress or with a pencil skirt.
- Over a top and trousers for daytime events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams at the front and back.
Length: Hip length, with rounded front corners.
Collar: Notched collar: upper and under collar joined to separately cut, interfaced lapels at the gorge seam; stay tape along the front neckline.
Sleeves: Short, cut in a front and a back part. Each part is faced along a rounded section, and the resulting tails are overlapped at the hem; pleats at the cap point towards the centre of the sleeve. The width can be adjusted through the tail.
Closure: One button and buttonhole at the waist.
Front: Curved princess seam from the armhole; interfaced centre front and front facing, front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a dart on each centre back piece; back neck facing and back hem facing.
Lining: Body lining cut without the facing widths, sewn to the facings and bagged out through an opening in the left side seam; sleeves are unlined.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A notched collar built from separate lapel pieces, a bagged lining with hem facing, and an unusual sleeve with faced tails and cap pleats.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense silk suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre front, front facing, back neck and hem facings, upper collar, lapels)
- Fusible stay tape for the front neckline
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Tip: The sleeve width can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the sleeve "tail".
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Along the front neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
- Stitch and press open the princess seam on the front.
- Stitch the dart on the center back. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together, and stitch the outer edge and the collar stand. Trim seams at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar. Fold lapels in pairs, right sides together, and stitch the stand and outer edge of the lapel. Clip the seam allowance at the stand notch, turn the lapel right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the gorge seam: upper collar to upper lapel, under collar to under lapel. Press seams open. Secure seam allowances together close to the stitching line.
- Set the collar with lapel into the jacket neckline.
- Place the front facing with its facing piece on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge facing to the front facing. The stitching line should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening for turning in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings. Turn right side out. Stitch the opening closed. Secure the lining to the main garment at the armhole edges.
- On the back sleeve piece, clip the seam allowance at the corner of the piece and overlock the edge marked "***". Join the circular marks, folding the piece right sides together. Stitch the rounded section between the marks. Clip the seam allowance near the marks, turn the piece right side out, and press. Process the front sleeve piece in a similar manner. Stitch the sleeve pieces along the vertical edge from the sleeve cap to the corner. Press seam allowances open and overlock. Overlap the resulting "tails" and attach them to the corresponding edges. Overlock the seams. Stitch and overlock the sleeve edge. Topstitch the hem allowance at the bottom of the sleeve with 2-3 stitches. At the sleeve cap, create pleats, with pleat depths directed towards the center of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper.
- On the right front, make the buttonhole; on the left front, sew on the button.
