Fitted Tailored Jacket with Flap Pockets
A women's collarless, hip-length jacket with a one-button waistband panel, flap patch pockets and two-piece three-quarter sleeves with buttoned tabs. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer, in linen, over a dress or with matching trousers or a skirt.
- At the office over a shirt or a thin knit top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts in the upper front and upper back and a seam at the waist.
Neckline: Collarless round neckline that opens into a deep V down to the waistband, finished with front facings and a back neck facing; edges topstitched 0.5 cm.
Sleeves: Set-in, two-piece, three-quarter length, with a slit in the elbow seam faced at the hem and a buttoned tab caught in the elbow seam.
Closure: One button and buttonhole on the front waistband.
Waist: Upper and lower front and back are joined by a separate waistband panel, topstitched 0.5 cm along both edges.
Pockets: Lined patch pockets with a pleat, topstitched 3 cm from the upper edge; the flaps are sewn into the waistband seam above them and button down to the pocket.
Back: Upper back cut on the fold with darts and a box pleat; tabs from the side seams button onto the back waistband.
Finishing: Tabs topstitched 0.5 cm around the edge; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, cut from the main pieces minus the facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A bagged lining, flaps set into a seam, a faced front with a waistband end that is topstitched in stages, faced sleeve vents, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres, for example linen.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, tabs, flaps, sleeve facings)
- Lining fabric
- 7 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 1 piece on fold
- Back waistband – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Front waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- Other lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the neckline facing and front facings.
- From fusible interlining:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interlining.
- Stitch the darts on the upper back, press the fullness towards the center. Form and secure a box pleat on the upper back. Attach the back waistband to the upper back, press seam allowances towards the waistband. Attach the lower back to the waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband. Topstitch along the waistband 0.5 cm from the attachment line.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch, leaving the upper edge open. Trim the seam allowances at the flap corners and turn right side out. Straighten the seams and press. Work a buttonhole.
- Form and secure a pleat on the pocket. Stitch the pocket facing to the lining, leaving an opening for turning. Press seam allowances upwards. Fold the pocket with the lining right sides together and stitch around the perimeter. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the pocket right side out, straighten and press. Topstitch 3 cm from the upper edge.
- Stitch the darts on the upper front, press the fullness towards the center. Attach the front waistband to the upper front, clip the waistband seam allowances at the mark and press towards the waistband. Attach the lower front to the waistband, inserting the flap. Clip the waistband seam allowances at the mark and press towards the waistband.
- Fold the flap upwards and topstitch the pocket onto the lower front, 1.0 – 1.5 cm from the flap attachment line. Sew buttons onto the pockets according to the flap buttonholes.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the neckline section of the front, stopping 2-3 cm before the neckline edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Stitch the lower corner. Trim seams at the corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams, and press.
- Lay out the front and front facing in one line, topstitch 0.5 cm along the upper edge of the waistband up to the mark. Stop stitching, fold the front facing to the wrong side and topstitch along the protruding end of the waistband down to the lower mark. Stop stitching again, lay out the front and front facing in one line and topstitch along the lower edge of the waistband from the mark to the side seam.
- Fold the tab piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the shaped and long sides. Trim seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Straighten seams and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the contour. Work a buttonhole.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams. Stitch the side seams, inserting the tab. Press seam allowances open. Sew a button onto the back waistband.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the back and front necklines. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten seams and press.
- Fold the sleeve tab piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the shaped and long sides. Trim seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Straighten seams and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the contour. Work a buttonhole.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the top to the lower mark, inserting the tab. Press seam allowances towards the lower. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Stitch the front edge of the sleeve facings. Fold the facing with the sleeve right sides together and stitch the hem and the slit in the elbow seam. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the hem of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the neckline and front edges.
- Work a buttonhole on the right waistband, sew a button on the left waistband. Sew buttons on the sleeves.
