Pleated Shift Dress with Color Block Hem

Name: Pleated Shift Dress with Color Block Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4127
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4127

A straight sleeveless women's shift dress with an inverted pleat down the centre front, bust darts and a contrast hem band cut from a second fabric. It closes at the back neck with one button and a rouleau loop. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres, such as silk or viscose, in two colours: one for the dress and one for the hem band.

Tech. Description

Pleated Shift Dress with Color Block Hem

When To Wear

On warm days in spring and summer, made in light silk or viscose.
To the office or for daytime events, over bare legs or with light tights.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, loose shift with no waist seam; shaped only by bust darts at the side seams.

Neckline: Round neckline finished with a facing and edge-stitched 0.1 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Sleeveless with extended shoulders; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half and topstitched to the inside.

Front: One piece cut on the fold, with pleats laid along marked lines from the neckline, their inner folds facing the centre front, stitched at the neckline and pressed down to the bust line.

Back: Two pieces joined by a centre back seam; the seam is left open at the top to form a slit, closed with one button and a rouleau loop.

Skirt: A separate hem band in the second fabric, cut as front and back pieces and joined around the lower edge, with a 3 cm double-turned hem.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats laid to markings, a rouleau loop, bias-bound armholes and a neckline facing joined to a back opening.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres, such as silk or viscose, in two colours: one for the dress and one for the hem band.

Additional Supplies

Thin fusible interfacing (front and back facings)
1 button
Bias tape (or a 4 cm bias strip cut from the fabric)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 3 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric 1:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
From main fabric 2:
- Back hem band - 1 piece
- Front hem band - 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Interface the facings with fusible interfacing.
On the front, stitch the bust darts. Press the darts upwards.
On the front, create pleats along the marked lines. The inner edge of the pleats should be directed towards the center front. Secure the pleats at the neckline and press them up to the bust line.
Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back and overlock.
Cut bias tape (if not ready-made) 4 cm wide for armhole finishing. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias tape along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, then fold the tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
Prepare the rouleau loop. Attach the loop to the center back edge of the right back piece. Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the bottom up to the notch and press open.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings. Overlock the seams and press towards the front. Overlock the outer edge of the facings. Stitch the neckline. Attach the center back edge of the back facing to the center back edge of the back. Clip the seam allowances at curves, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Topstitch along the neckline 0.1 cm from the edge.
Stitch the side seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Secure the side seam allowance to the armhole with 2-3 stitches.
Stitch the hem band pieces. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Attach the hem band to the dress. Overlock the seam and press upwards.
Fold the hem of the garment first by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm, and topstitch.
Sew the button on the back.