Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin, well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; elastic tape; 1 zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowances 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing right – 1 piece
- Front facing left – 1 piece
- Fly shield – 1 piece
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing left and right
- Back facing
- Fly shield
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the back facing, front right and left facings, and fly shield with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the side edges of the front and back facings. Press open the side seams of the facings. Serge the bottom edge.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back pant half. Press the darts towards the center. Stitch the center seam on the back halves, press allowances to the left side and serge.
- Form and secure the pleats on the front half according to the markings. Place the pocket bag on the front half and stitch the pocket opening. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, topstitch the allowances to the pocket bag with a 0.1 cm seam and press.
- Place the front half onto the side panel according to the markings. Stitch the pocket bag to the side panel, serge the allowances. Secure the pocket bag to the front half at the top and side edges.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated facing, leaving a 1.5 cm allowance. Serge the center edges of the front halves together with the integrated facings. Stitch the center front seam from the bottom to the beginning of the fly, press allowances towards the right side seam.
- Press the integrated zipper facings to the wrong side: on the right – along the center front line, on the left – stopping 5 mm before the center front line. Stitch the zipper under the edge of the fly allowance (left side) close to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold. Serge the longitudinal and bottom edges of the fly shield. Place the unfolded fly shield under the edge of the fly allowance on the left side and topstitch close to the zipper attachment seam. Lay out the front halves, smooth the edge of the zipper. Align the center front lines and secure. Stitch the free zipper tape to the integrated facing of the right half, without catching the main piece.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back half and serge. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back half and serge.
- Stitch the facing to the integrated front facing of the right half and the fly shield on the left. Fold the facing right sides together with the pants and stitch the top edge. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the facing to the wrong side. Topstitch the facing seam to the facing 0.1 cm from the seam.
- Topstitch the right front half along the zipper according to the markings, stopping 3 cm before the bottom end of the zipper. Close the zipper and extend the topstitching with a curve at the end of the zipper, catching the fly shield.
- Serge the hem allowance of the pant legs, press to the wrong side and topstitch, leaving openings for elastic. Insert elastic.
