Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: silk fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, preferably with added elastane. Also needed: elastic band 0.7 cm wide, fusible interfacing tape.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: neckline allowance for back and front – 1.5 cm; hem allowance – 3 cm; upper edge of front and back shorts halves, and also lower edge of back and lower part of front – 2 cm; lower edge of front and back sleeve parts – 0 cm; shoulder seam of sleeve at armhole allowance 1 cm and smoothly tapers to zero at the lower edge. Other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front half of shorts — 2 pieces
- Back half of shorts — 2 pieces
- Ties — 2 pieces (3.7 cm * 70 cm each)
Tip: when overcasting the sleeve insertion seam, trim with an overlocker to 0.5-0.7 cm
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Stitch shoulder seams. Overcast seams and press towards the back.
- Finish the neckline of the back and upper front part with a "French seam" (also called "Moscow seam"). To do this, press the allowance to the wrong side by 1.5 cm, stitch 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold. Trim the allowance close to the stitching. Fold the allowance again and stitch along the previous line. Press the seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overcast seam and press open. Place a bar tack at the top of the seam, securing the allowance.
- Stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge along the lower edge of the upper front part. Gather between the notches. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Press seam downwards and overcast.
- Reinforce the left side edge of the back with fusible interfacing tape. Overcast the edges of the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side edge from the armhole to the notch. Press seam open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side edge. Overcast seam and press towards the back.
- Stitch the center seams of the front and back shorts halves. Overcast seams and press towards the right half. Stitch the side seams of the shorts. Overcast seams and press towards the back.
- Fold bodice and shorts wrong sides together. Stitch 0.7 cm from the edge. Turn pieces to the wrong side, press, and stitch again 1.3 cm from the seam. Press seam downwards. Topstitch the allowance onto the shorts.
- Stitch the lower edge of the sleeve. Overcast seam and press towards the back. Finish the sleeve hem and sleeve shoulder edges from the armhole to the sleeve hem with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the section of the shoulder seam on the sleeve from the armhole to the notch.
- Set sleeves into armholes. Overcast seam and press.
- Stitch the inseam, overcast, and press towards the back half.
- Press the lower edges first by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm, and topstitch.
- Carefully cut a buttonhole for inserting the elastic and overcast by hand. Insert the elastic and secure.
- Cut the ties. Press the pieces in half lengthwise. Unfold the pieces and press the longitudinal edges towards the fold. Stitch the pieces. Attach the ties to the shoulder seam.
