Collared Short Sleeve Blouse
A women's fitted short-sleeve shirt blouse of hip length, with a shirt collar on a stand, a buttoned front placket, side panels and a back yoke. Each sleeve has a hem band with a tie caught into the seam and knotted in a bow; seams are topstitched in contrast thread.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer, for the office and everyday wear.
- Tucked into skirts or worn loose over trousers and jeans.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts and side panels between the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, interfaced, with a buttonhole on the stand.
Sleeves: Short, set-in, each made of an upper sleeve and a lower band; a pair of ties stitched into the joining seam and tied in a bow.
Front: Separate interfaced button plackets, topstitched 0.5 cm from the fold and edge; 7 buttons in total.
Back: Back yoke and a centre back seam, both topstitched.
Finishing: Contrast topstitching 0.5 cm along all main seams, the collar and stand; hems of the blouse and sleeves double-turned 1 cm and 1 cm.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar on a stand, applied front plackets, side panels and even topstitching in contrast thread throughout.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres: cotton, viscose, polyester.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, upper collar, inner collar stand)
- Contrast thread for topstitching
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm, sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Tie – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the plackets, upper collar, and inner collar stand.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the collar stand. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Mark and stitch the bust darts on the front, press them upwards.
- Stitch the center back seam. Finish the seam allowances and press them towards the left side seam. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Attach the yoke to the back. Finish the seam allowances and press them upwards. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Place the placket right side down on the wrong side of the front and stitch the center edge. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the raw edge, and topstitch onto the front at 0.5 cm from the fold. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge of the placket.
- Attach the side to the back, press the seam allowances towards the back and finish. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Attach the side to the front, press the seam allowances towards the front and finish. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch the shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and finish. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the lower collar stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment. Topstitch along the collar and collar stand at 0.5 cm.
- Fold the tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long side and one short side. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the ties right side out, and press. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the lower sleeve to the upper sleeve, inserting the ties, press the seam allowances towards the upper sleeve and finish. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Hem the sleeve by folding 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Hem the garment by folding 1 cm to the wrong side, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the collar stand and right front. Sew on buttons.
