Collared Dress with Cuffs and Back Zip

Collared Dress with Cuffs and Back Zip

A women's fitted knee-length dress with a draped cowl on the upper front, a shirt collar on a stand, three-quarter sleeves with turned-up cuffs and an invisible zipper in the centre back seam. The front has a waist seam; the back is shaped with darts.

When To Wear

• At the office and for daytime meetings, worn with a belt at the waist (recommended).
• In spring and autumn with tights and pumps or ankle boots.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, close to the body through the waist and hips, with a straight skirt.

Length: About knee length.

Collar: Shirt collar set on a stand; the collar and the stand are each cut in two layers, one of each interfaced.

Neckline: The upper front is cut in one piece on the fold and falls into soft cowl folds below the collar; the front neckline is finished with a two-layer placket.

Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves with a single seam, finished with interfaced two-layer cuffs that are turned up.

Front: Horizontal seam at the waist between the draped upper front and the lower front; the lower front, cut on the fold, has darts.

Back: Two back pieces with darts and a centre back seam; the invisible zipper is set between two marks in that seam.

Finishing: Hem allowance of 2 cm turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar on a stand, a draped one-piece upper front with a neckline placket, two-layer cuffs and an invisible zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics with good drape, made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, cuffs)
• Invisible zipper
• Belt (recommended; not included in the pattern)

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Upper Front – 1 piece on fold
3. Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
4. Sleeves – 2 pieces
5. Placket – 2 pieces
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Cuffs – 4 pieces
8. Collar stand – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

1. Collar – 1 piece
2. Cuffs – 2 pieces
3. Collar stand – 1 piece

Important Information

Before starting, print the paper pattern pieces and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may range from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine the required amount of material. Do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay attention to the notches — they must match.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the required pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the back pieces and press them toward the center. Finish the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center seam from the top to the upper zipper mark and from the lower zipper mark to the hem. Press seam allowances open and insert the invisible zipper.
3. Place the placket pieces right sides together and stitch along the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Attach the outer placket to the front. Fold the inner placket edge inward and stitch into the seam.
4. Stitch darts on the lower front piece and press toward the center. Join the upper and lower front pieces. Finish seam allowances and press upward.
5. Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
6. Place the upper and lower collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edges. Trim seams, turn right side out, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, inserting the prepared collar between them, matching notches. Stitch, finishing the ends of the collar stand at the same time. Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked attachment line. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline. Fold the lower stand edge inward and stitch into the seam.
7. Stitch the sleeve seams. Finish seam allowances and press toward the back.
8. Pair cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and long edges. Start and finish stitching exactly at the marked attachment line. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve. Fold the inner cuff edge to the wrong side and stitch into the seam. Turn the cuff upward.
9. Finish the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and stitch.