Gathered Waist Shirt with Pointed Hem

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, 13 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the details with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side and overcast.
3. Right upper front part: Press the front part inwards to the wrong side along the lines "edge of placket" and "edge of hidden placket". Stitch a decorative-securing stitch along the line "inner edge of placket". Fold the inner part of the placket towards the edge, press, overcast buttonholes. Left upper front part: Add a 1 cm seam allowance to the line "inner edge of placket", trim the rest. Press the placket inwards by 1 cm, then along the line "edge of placket" and stitch a decorative stitch along the inner edge of the placket.
4. Along the lower edge of the upper front part, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts (the lower part's edge is longer by the width of the placket edge allowance), press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
5. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Fold the lower front part with the front facing right sides together and stitch the upper edge of the front facing, the placket edge, the lower edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, press.
6. Stitch side and shoulder seams (back side seams are longer by the allowance width), press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Fold collar pieces right sides together, stitch ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners. Turn collar right side out, straighten and press. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitch strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at curves. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
8. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
9. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to double the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press outer seam allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Create and secure arbitrary pleats on the sleeve.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
11. Fold the cuff piece in half lengthwise right side in and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitch precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
12. Overcast the outer edge of the back hem facing. Fold the facing with the back right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press.
13. Overcast buttonholes on the right front placket. Sew buttons on the left front placket. Overcast buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs.