Belted Zipper Front Collared Dress
A women's fitted denim dress above the knee, with a waist seam, princess seams on the bodice, a metal zip closing the centre front from the lapels down, patch pockets on the skirt and a buckled belt worn through belt loops.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer as a day dress, with flat sandals or trainers.
- With ankle boots and a denim or leather jacket on cooler days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams, joined to a straight, close-fitting skirt at a waist seam.
Length: Above the knee.
Collar: Two-piece collar with lapels; the fronts open into a V at the neck.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves.
Closure: Metal zip set into the centre front seam from the lapels to a mark on the skirt; below the mark the seam is stitched closed. Front facings and a back neck facing finish the edges.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the front skirt, with a curved opening bound with 4 cm bias binding, topstitched with a double row at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
Back: Centre back seam; princess seams on the upper back, darts on the lower back.
Waist: Self-fabric belt with a decorative buckle, held by four belt loops stitched near the back darts and at the outer side of the pockets.
Finishing: Princess seams, centre back seam and darts topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip set into the centre front seam, a collar set with front facings, bound pocket openings and close edge topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing)
- Fusible tape for the pocket openings
- Bias binding, 4 cm wide (or cut from the main fabric)
- Metal zip
- Buckle
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom — 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back - 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Lower front - 2 pieces
- Pocket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press allowances to the left side, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm.
- Stitch the darts on the lower back parts, press depths towards the center. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Stitch the center seam of the lower back, press allowances to the left side, serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press allowances upwards, serge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center and serge. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm.
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible tape. Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias binding with the pocket opening right sides together and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip allowances, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the darts on the lower front parts, press depths towards the center. Topstitch along the seam at 0.1 cm. Press the upper, vertical, and lower sides of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the lower front according to the markings and topstitch with a double stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press allowances upwards, serge.
- Serge the center front edges separately from the bottom to the beginning of the lapel. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper from the lapel to the mark.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, shape, press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the front facings on the garment right side down and stitch the front edges and neckline edge. Clip allowances, turn the front facings with the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along the long side. Then turn right side out, shape the seam, placing it on the fold, and press. Topstitch at 0.1 cm from the edge. Cut the belt loop into 4 pieces to size.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along the two short sides and the long side, leaving a turning opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, sew up the opening. Topstitch along the belt contour. Thread and secure the decorative buckle.
- Topstitch the belt loops near the back darts and at the outer side of the pocket.
