Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 6 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 1 piece on fold
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Placket - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the pocket opening allowance on the lower front part.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch the front princess seams. Overcast allowances and press towards the center. Place pocket lining on the lower front part, right side down, and stitch between the marks. Turn the lining to the wrong side and press the fold. Place the lower front part with lining on the upper front part, right sides together. Align the edges and stitch in one continuous line the edges of the upper and lower front parts, the pocket lining, and the section of the upper side and lower parts. Overcast allowances and press downwards.
- Fold the placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the upper edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked placket attachment line. Trim allowances at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the front. Fold the allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch the ends and the outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar insertion seam line. Clip allowances, trim at corners, turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Insert the outer collar into the neckline. Fold the allowance of the inner collar inwards and topstitch into the insertion seam.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- On the right placket, overcast buttonholes; on the left placket, sew on buttons.
