Gathered Neck Yoke Dress with Topstitching

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom — 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 2 pieces
  • Pocket — 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
3. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances downwards, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
4. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
5. Attach the front yoke to the side part, press seam allowances upwards, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge. Stitch the center seam of the side front parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
6. On the center front part, create and secure the pleats. Attach the center front part to the side part, clipping the latter at the corners. Press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
7. Serge the pocket piece around the perimeter. Press the side of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch the pocket opening between the marks 0.8 cm from the fold. Press the remaining sides of the pocket to the wrong side, place on the front according to the markings and topstitch 0.8 cm from the edge, skipping the pocket opening.
8. Stitch the center edge of the lower front part, press seam allowances open, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances downwards, serge. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
9. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Stitch the shoulder edges of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right side down and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right side out and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve from the right side, serge seam allowances. Fold the cuff down, press. Topstitch along the seam 0.1 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
12. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.