Lapel Collar Double Breasted Pleated Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 4 main buttons; 1 internal button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEN THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THEN THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for bottom and sleeve hem – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 2 pieces
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar — 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press seam allowances to the left, serge.
3. Stitch the center seam of the lower back, press seam allowances to the left, serge. Form and secure inverted pleats along the upper edge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
4. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center, serge.
5. Form and secure inverted pleats along the upper edge of the lower front part. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
7. Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn collar right side out, shape and press.
8. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Serge the outer edge.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel corner. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn front facings right side out, shape seams.
10. Attach the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
12. Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
13. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the right front. Make a buttonhole on the left front, sew on a hidden button.