Keyhole Collar Bishop Sleeve Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane, silk. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Form and secure the pleats on the shoulder edge of the front. The pleat depths are directed towards the center.
3. Place the front facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and neckline edge. Clip the allowances, turn the front facings to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
4. Stitch the shoulder seams. The back shoulder seam allowance extends by 1 cm. Press the allowances towards the back and serge.
5. Stitch the side seams. Serge the allowances and press towards the back.
6. Place the collar pieces right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim the allowances at the corners. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the back neckline. Fold the allowance of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch along the attachment seam. Fold the open allowances of the collar stand inwards and stitch them together.
7. Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the top to the slit mark. Press the allowance open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.3 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Serge the allowance and press. Along the bottom of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
8. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the cuff right side out, straighten, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch along the attachment seam of the outer side of the cuff.
9. Serge the bottom edge of the garment. Press the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the fronts and cuffs. Make a buttonhole and sew on a button on the collar stand.