Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 13 snaps. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Bottom placket – 1 piece on fold
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Bottom placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center.
- Place flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the bottom and side edges.
- Form and secure the box pleat on the pocket. Overlock the top edges of the pocket. Fold the top seam allowance to the wrong side, topstitch, and press. Overlock the bottom and side seam allowances of the pocket. Press the bottom and side seam allowances of the pocket to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to the markings. Attach the front yoke to the front, inserting the flap. Overlock seam allowances and press upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam to secure.
- Stitch the outer side of the front placket to the front. Press seam allowance towards the placket. Fold the placket to the wrong side, turn under the raw edge, and topstitch into the seam of the outer part.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back, and overlock.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the ends and outer edge. Stitch the collar stand pieces, inserting the collar between them. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.
- Stitch the upper collar stand to the neckline of the garment. Fold the seam allowance of the lower collar stand to the wrong side and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and length equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back, and overlock.
- Fold the bottom placket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the bottom of the garment, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards, and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket.
- Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and one short side. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the finished sides. Fold the raw edge inwards and topstitch the tab onto the bottom placket according to the markings.
- Attach snaps according to the markings.
