Chiffon-Sleeve Blouse with Flutter Shoulders

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Chiffon. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 6 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Flutter sleeve – 4 pieces
• From chiffon:
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch bust darts, press seam allowances upwards.
3. Fold back neckline facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn facing to the right side, straighten and press. Stitch the outer facing to the back neckline, press seam allowances towards the facing. Fold the seam allowance of the inner facing inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing.
4. Fold front neckline facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances, turn facing to the right side, straighten and press. Stitch the outer facing to the front neckline, press seam allowances towards the facing. Fold the seam allowance of the inner facing inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 30 cm long for the loop closures. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and press into a rouleau. Cut into six pieces, adjust loop length. Topstitch loops onto the front, positioning the ends flush with the marked cut line.
6. Place the placket on the right side of the front and stitch along both sides of the slit at 0.5 cm, tapering the stitching to nothing at the bottom. Cut the front and facing along the marked line, turn the facing to the wrong side, fold the raw edges inwards and topstitch onto the front.
7. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Fold flutter sleeve pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances, turn flutter sleeve to the right side, straighten and press. Stitch along the inner edge with a loosened top thread and gather. Stitch the flutter sleeve to the armhole.
9. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias binding from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press outer seam allowances towards the center. Bind the sleeve slit with bias binding.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch along the upper and lower edges of the sleeve with a loosened top thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
11. Cut 4 bias strips 2.5 cm wide and 30 cm long for the sleeve ties. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and press into a rouleau.
12. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides of the cuff, inserting the ties. The stitching should start and end exactly at the marked seam line for attaching the cuff. Trim seam allowances, turn the cuff to the right side and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff.
13. Press the bottom edge 1 cm, then 1.5 cm and topstitch.
14. Sew buttons onto the left side of the front placket.