Bomber Jacket with Flap and Zippered Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: soft coat fabrics (bouclé) made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 separating zipper; two zippers for pockets; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 1 piece on fold
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the back yoke to the back. Overlock the seam allowance and press it upwards.
3. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the resulting opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch it. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
4. Fold the flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim the seam allowances, turn right side out and press.
5. Stitch the front yoke to the front, inserting the flap. Overlock the seam allowances and press them upwards.
6. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the outer collar into the neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press the seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edges. Stitch the inner collar into the neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
8. At the bottom edges of the front and back, create and secure pleats. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the garment. Press the seam allowances downwards. Stitch the front facing to the inner side of the placket.
9. Place the front facing, neckline facing, and collar on the right side of the garment, secure along the seams and stitch the front edges and collars, inserting the zipper. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the front facing and neckline facing to the wrong side and press the front edges. Fold the upper edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer side attachment. Secure the collars together. Secure the front facings and the top of the garment along the shoulder seams.
10. Overlock the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeves from the top to the cut mark. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the cut.
11. At the bottom of the sleeve, create and secure a pleat. Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges and corner. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Clip the seam allowances at the mark. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
12. Stitch the sleeves into the armholes, press and overlock the seam allowances.
13. Make buttonholes and sew buttons onto the cuffs.