Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons; elastic thread; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seam allowances – 1.0 cm, hem allowance for the garment and sleeve – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can range from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Ruffle – 1 piece on fold
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch darts on front pieces, trim allowances with an overlock to 1 cm and press towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the ruffle piece lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Along the long raw edge, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Attach the ruffle to the right front edge, right neckline, back neckline, left neckline.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the right front edge, right neckline, back neckline, left neckline (the ruffle is positioned between the pieces). Clip allowances at curves, turn front facings with facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure to the garment at shoulder seams. Overlock the center edge of the left front. Place the right front over the left, aligning center lines, and topstitch along the right front edge.
- Along the upper edge of the lower back part, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Stitch the lower and upper back parts, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front part, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Attach the lower front part to the upper part, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the left side edges of the back separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the zipper mark and from the second zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open, pressing the opening for the zipper. Insert the concealed zipper. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances, overlock.
- Press the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 1 cm and topstitch.
- Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, along the marked line, stitch two parallel rows using elastic thread.
- Sew buttons onto the front according to markings.
