Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons; 1 inner button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances – 1.0 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Back peplum – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front peplum – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces and the one-piece front peplum facing.
- Stitch darts on the back piece, trim depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overcast. Stitch darts on the front pieces, trim depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, simultaneously with sleeve seams. Press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing and front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, press.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances, turn the collar right side out, straighten and press. Topstitch along the contour. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch, inserting the collar. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Trim allowances, turn the collar stand right side out and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the allowance of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overcast side seams separately, simultaneously with sleeve seams. Stitch side seams, simultaneously with sleeve seams from the bottom to the slit mark. Press allowances open.
- Overcast vertical edges of the front peplum. Stitch side seams of the peplum, press allowances towards the back, overcast. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the garment, enclosing the seam with the one-piece front peplum facing. Press allowances upwards, overcast. Turn the facing to the wrong side.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides of the cuff. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Trim allowances, turn the cuff right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overcast buttonholes on the right front peplum, left front piece, and cuffs. Sew buttons accordingly. (Buttons on the right front piece are sewn from the wrong side). Overcast the top buttonhole on the left front peplum, sew the inner button on the right peplum.
