Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the lower back part – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
Attention! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the darts on the lower back pieces, press depths towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the darts on the lower front pieces, press depths towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the bottom and side edges. Trim allowances, clip corners, turn pieces right side out, straighten and press. Overcast the top edge. Place the flap on the front according to markings (the lower edge of the flap points towards the shoulder seam) and stitch. Fold the flap down and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the garment, press allowances open.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams.
- Stitch the undercollar into the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the garment, folding back the front facing at the side seam of the front piece, press allowances open.
- Stitch the seams and darts on the lining, leaving a technological opening in the left side seam. Stitch the lining to the back neckline facing and front facings. Turn the garment right side out. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
- Mark and press up the hem of the garment at the back. Stitch the lining to the hem of the garment. Stitch the technological opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front piece, sew buttons on the left. Make the top buttonhole on the left front piece, sew the inner button on the right front piece.
