Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: soft suiting fabrics, corduroy made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 1 piece on fold
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Center 2 front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 4 pieces
  • Placket – 1 piece on fold
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 1 piece on fold

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the integral front placket.
2. Stitch the back princess seam. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the back. Overlock seam allowance and press upwards.
3. Fold flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the bottom and side edges.
4. Stitch the front princess seams. Overlock seam allowances and press away from the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams. Topstitch to imitate a pocket. Attach the front yoke to the front, inserting the flap. Overlock seam allowances and press upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam to secure.
5. Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Topstitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch ends should stop at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
6. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
7. Turn the integral front placket to the wrong side. Stitch the upper corner up to the center line. Trim seam allowance at the corner. Clip seam allowance at the center line. Turn right side out and press the front edge. Fold the longitudinal seam allowance of the placket inwards and topstitch.
8. Place the upper collar on the undercollar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the ends and outer edge.
9. Attach the upper collar to the garment neckline. Fold the seam allowance of the undercollar to the wrong side and topstitch into the seam attaching the upper collar.
10. On the front sleeve part, clip the seam allowance at the mark. Overlock the slit seam allowance. Stitch the sleeve princess seam from the top to the slit mark. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam along the back sleeve part. Topstitch along the slit on the front sleeve part to secure.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
12. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loose thread and gather at the back sleeve part.
13. Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges and corner. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam attaching the outer cuff.
14. Fold the lower placket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked placket attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the bottom of the garment, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam attaching the outer placket. Topstitch around the perimeter of the placket.
15. Make buttonholes on the right front, cuffs, and flaps. Sew buttons onto the left front, pockets, and cuffs.