Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances – 1.0 cm, hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part - 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center. Attach the lower back part to the upper back part. Finish the seam allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch the center back seam. Finish the seam allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch darts on the upper front pieces. Press allowances towards the center. Form and secure pleats on the lower front part. Pleat depths are directed away from the center. Attach the lower front part to the upper front part. Finish the seam allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and finish. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Finish the outer edge.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line for attaching the collar stand. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press. Attach the collar with stand to the neckline.
- Place front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the front edges and the neckline edge of the back and front (the collar is positioned between the pieces). Clip curves, trim corners, turn the front facings with facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure to the garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam. Topstitch along the front edge as marked.
- Form pleats on the lower sleeve part, pleat depths are directed upwards. Stitch the sleeve seam. Stitch the lining seam. Place the lower sleeve part and lining right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Turn right side out and press the sleeve hem. Secure the upper edges of the lower sleeve part and lining. Stitch the upper sleeve part seam. Finish the allowance and press towards the back. Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts together. Finish the allowance and press upwards. Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches, press and finish the allowance.
- Finish the hem allowance, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and collar stand. Sew on buttons according to the buttonholes.
