Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft suiting fabrics and corduroy made of natural or blended fibers in two coordinating colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm, top edge of pocket allowance – 2 cm, all other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Right front - 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Left front - 1 piece
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back yoke to the back. Overcast the allowance and press it upwards.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim the allowances, turn right side out, and press.
- Overcast the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance under and topstitch. Fold in and press the side and bottom edges of the pockets. Place the pocket on the front and topstitch according to the markings.
- Stitch the front yoke to the front, inserting the flap. Overcast the allowances and press them upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape it, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press the allowances open. Overcast the outer edges.
- Place the front facing and back neckline facing on the right side of the main garment, align at the seams, and stitch the front edges and neckline, inserting the collar. Turn the front facing and back neckline facing to the wrong side and press the front edges. Secure the front facings and the top of the garment at the shoulder seams.
- Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges and corner. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and overcast. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, make a row of stitches with loosened thread and gather.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, fold inwards, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, cuffs, and flaps. Sew buttons onto the left front, pockets, and cuffs.
