Button-Down Blouse with Gathered Long Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece with fold
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar — 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the one-piece placket of the front.
2. Lay and secure the pleats along the upper edge of the front. The pleat depths are directed towards the center.
3. Press the one-piece placket of the front to the wrong side along the edge line. Fold the longitudinal allowance of the one-piece placket inwards and topstitch the placket to the front.
4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, straighten and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar into the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
6. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias binding from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length +4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Bind the sleeve slit with bias binding. Lay and secure the pleat on the sleeve. The depth is directed away from the closure.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Lay a stitch with loosened upper thread along the sleeve cap and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overcast.
8. Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
9. Fold the bottom edge of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm and topstitch.
10. On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left – sew on buttons. Overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
11. Tip. As a decorative finish, you can overcast buttonholes on the ends of the collar, and sew on buttons on the front accordingly.