Blazer Dress with Pleated Skirt

Name: Blazer Dress with Pleated Skirt
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2636
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2636

A women's midi dress cut like a jacket at the top: a crossover front with a notched collar and lapels, princess seams, and pleats set into the side panels of the skirt at front and back. Concealed zipper in the centre back seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Blazer Dress with Pleated Skirt

When To Wear

For the office and business meetings in place of a suit.
For daytime events in spring and autumn, with court shoes or ankle boots.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waist seam; the skirt widens at the sides, where the pleats are.

Length: Midi, below the knee.

Collar: Notched collar with lapels; under collar sewn to the neckline, upper collar to the front and back neck facings.

Front: Crossover front, right over left, the fronts joined along the centre line and secured at the waist seam. Upper bodice with princess seams.

Skirt: Lower front and back each made of a centre panel, side panels and side pieces; the pleats are laid on the lower side panels and stitched into the seam with the side piece.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece set-in sleeves with a single underarm seam.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams in the upper back and in the skirt, waist seam.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam.

Finishing: Interfaced front facings and back neck facing; seams serged; dress and sleeve hems blind-stitched by hand.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar with lapels set between the dress and the facings, many princess-seamed panels to match at the waist seam, pleats sewn into shaped panels, a concealed zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing)
Concealed zipper

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Upper center back piece - 2 pieces
- Upper side back piece - 2 pieces
- Lower center back piece - 2 pieces
- Lower side back piece - 2 pieces
- Back side - 2 pieces
- Upper center front piece - 2 pieces
- Upper side front piece - 2 pieces
- Lower center front piece – 1 piece
- Lower side front piece – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the lower side back piece, create and secure the pleats. Stitch the back side and lower side back piece, press allowances upwards, serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, serge.
Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge allowances and press towards the back.
Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Serge the outer edge.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel corner. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
Stitch the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
Overlap the right front piece over the left, align at the center line and secure at the bottom edge.
On the lower side front piece, create and secure the pleats. Stitch the front side and lower side front piece, press allowances upwards, serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower front, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
Serge the hem allowance of the dress bottom and sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.