Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; elastic tape 1.5 cm wide; 2 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back part, press allowances towards the center. Along the upper back part, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the lower edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper front part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Along the lower edge of the upper front part, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and shape the rouleau. Cut into two equal parts. Adjust loop lengths.
- Fold the collar lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides, inserting the loops. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Stitch the front neckline section between the marks. Clip allowances at the marks. Turn right side out and press.
- Serge the outer edge of the front facing. Along the front neckline, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Place the facing and garment right sides together and stitch the front neckline. Trim allowances to 0.5 cm, at the corner to 0.1 cm. Turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth and press. Secure pieces at shoulder seams.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline, press allowance towards the collar. Press the allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the collar attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Fold the sleeve hem allowance inwards by 2 cm, then another 2 cm and topstitch, forming a casing. Adjust the length of the elastic tape, thread it through the casing and secure the ends.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the collar.
