High-Waisted Flared Midi Skirt with Welt Pockets
A women's flared midi skirt on a deep shaped yoke instead of a waistband, with a stitched centre front pleat, slanted double-welt pockets and an invisible zip in the centre back seam.
When To Wear
- For the office with a tucked-in blouse or a fine knit.
- In spring and autumn with a short jacket or cardigan.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: High waist, fitted through the yoke, flaring below it.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Waist: Wide front and back yokes, faced on the inside with an interfaced inner yoke that is stitched in the ditch of the outer yoke seam; no separate waistband.
Front: Front skirt cut in one piece on the fold, with diagonal pleats at the upper edge under the yoke (folds towards the centre) and a centre front pleat stitched along the marked line and pressed to the left.
Pockets: Two slanted double-welt pockets on the front skirt, each backed with an overlocked underlay piece.
Back: Back yoke and two back skirt pieces with a centre back seam.
Closure: Invisible zip in the centre back seam, running through the yoke.
Finishing: Inner yoke edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; hem overlocked, turned up 1.5 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Double-welt pockets cut through the skirt, a stitched centre pleat, a faced yoke and an invisible zip.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (back yokes, inner front yoke, welts)
- Invisible zip
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Skirt – 1 piece on the fold
- Back Yoke – 4 pieces
- Outer Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Inner Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Facing – 4 pieces
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Inner Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Facing – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to two Back Yoke pieces, the Inner Front Yoke and the Facing pieces.
- Stitch the outer back yokes to the back skirt pieces, press the seam allowances upwards. Overlock the center back edges of each piece separately. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the Facing pieces (welts) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark guide lines on the welts. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening. Stitch the welts to the front skirt. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening on the front skirt. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side and straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Overlock the Underlay Piece all around. Place it over the welts on the wrong side and stitch it in the ditch of the welt seam.
- Fold and baste the diagonal pleats at the upper edge of the front skirt (folds facing the center). Stitch the Outer Front Yoke to the front skirt, press seam allowances upwards. Fold the front along the center, wrong sides together, and stitch along the marked line to form the center front pleat. Open the front out and press the pleat to the left.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes (Inner Front Yoke and inner Back Yokes), press the allowances open. Overlock the lower edge. Place the inner yoke on the skirt, right sides together, and stitch the upper edge. Understitch the seam allowances to the inner yoke 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the inner yoke to the wrong side and press. Fold under the center back edges and sew them to the zipper tape. Stitch in the ditch of the outer yoke seam to secure the inner yoke.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
