Collared Short Sleeve Button Front Yoke Dress
A women's semi-fitted midi dress with a waist seam, a button front through the full length, a collar with lapels, front and back yokes, princess seams on the bodice and pleats on the skirt. Short set-in sleeves.
When To Wear
- In summer at the office or in town, with flat sandals or low heels.
- In spring and autumn under a jacket or cardigan.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted bodice, narrow skirt with a slight fullness from the waist pleats.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Collar: Two-piece collar with an interfaced upper collar, set into the neckline and the facings; the front edges turn back into lapels below it.
Front: Front yokes and upper bodice with princess seams and darts on the centre pieces; button front from the lapels to the hem, 7 buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Short, set-in.
Back: Back yoke, upper back with princess seams, lower back cut on the fold.
Skirt: Front and back joined to the bodice at the waist, with pleats turned away from the centre.
Finishing: Interfaced front facings and back neck facing; front edges topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam (on the facing along the button stand, on the front along the lapels).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Yokes and princess seams, a collar set between the dress and the facings with lapels, buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing)
- 7 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Upper center back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper side back — 2 pieces
- Lower back — 1 piece on fold
- Front yoke — 2 pieces
- Upper center front — 2 pieces
- Upper side front — 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the yoke to the upper center back, press seam allowances up and serge. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, serge.
- Form and secure the pleats on the lower back (pleat depths directed away from the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press seam allowances up and serge.
- Stitch the darts on the upper center front pieces, press dart depths up. Stitch the yoke to the upper center front, press seam allowances up and serge. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center, serge.
- Form and secure the pleats on the lower front (pleat depths directed away from the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances up and serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Serge the outer edge.
- Place the front facings on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar insertion. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Stitch the undercollar into the dress neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Clip the seam allowances of the collar insertion seams, press open, and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
