Ruched Wrap Blouse with Puff Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: Blouse fabrics with elastane content from natural or blended fibers. Or highly stretchable knitwear from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: Concealed zipper; elastic tape 1.5 – 2 cm wide; elastic thread.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for garment bottom - 2.5 cm, sleeve hem – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine. Fabric pieces with elastane content are stitched with a special “knit stitch” to prevent thread breakage.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch darts on back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower front parts. Serge allowances and press upwards. Serge middle edges of back separately. Along the middle edges of the lower back part, lay stitches with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the middle edge of the back from the zipper mark to the bottom. Insert the zipper. Serge allowance and press to the left side.
2. Stitch darts on front pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances to the back and serge. Serge neckline edges of front and back. Fold allowance inwards and topstitch. Alternatively, you can finish with bias binding: trim allowance to 0.5 cm. Bind with bias binding. Press allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
3. Overlap the right upper front part onto the left and secure along the center line. Stitch upper and lower front parts. Serge allowance and press upwards.
4. Stitch sleeve seam, press and serge allowances. Along the sleeve cap, lay a stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press and serge allowances.
5. Serge the hem allowance of the sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch, forming a casing. Thread elastic tape through the casing, adjust length and secure ends.
6. Along the marked lines on the front and back, lay a stitch with elastic thread. Secure ends, forming gathers. Similarly, lay stitches along the side seams and the middle back seam.
7. Serge the hem allowance of the garment bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.