Rounded Collar Lace Yoke Balloon Sleeve Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Lace fabric matching the main fabric. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance - 2.5 cm; other seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece with fold
  • Front - 1 piece with fold
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Collar — 4 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From lace fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Front yoke - 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Mark and cut the slit on the front yoke. Cut a bias strip for finishing the back slit, with a length equal to double the slit length + 4 cm and a width of 5 cm. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out. Lay out the back yoke along the slit line in a straight line, place the bias strip right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch in the ditch of the attaching seam.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front yokes, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
4. Place collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar insertion line. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the collar right side out, and press. Attach the upper collar to the neckline, press seam allowances towards the collar. Fold the seam allowance of the lower collar inwards and topstitch in the ditch of the attaching seam.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the rouleau loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and shape the rouleau. Adjust the loop length. Sew the loop to the left side of the back yoke. Sew a button to the right side.
6. Stitch along the upper edges of the back and front with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the back and front to the yokes, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
7. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch along the upper edge of the lower sleeve part with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
9. Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and serge. Stitch along the lower edge of the sleeve with a loosened upper thread and gather.
10. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Turn the piece right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch in the ditch of the outer cuff attaching seam.
11. Fold the bottom hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
12. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.