Sleeveless Wrap-Neck Midi Dress with Cut-On Collar
A sleeveless women's midi dress with a wrap bodice, right front over left, and a notched collar cut in one with the upper fronts. Separate waistbands front and back, a skirt with inverted pleats, and a concealed zipper at the centre back.
When To Wear
- At the office in summer, or over a fine blouse or polo neck in cooler months.
- Daytime events and dinners, with court shoes or sandals.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped by darts, waist seam with a waistband, flared skirt.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Collar: Cut in one with the upper fronts, joined by a seam at the centre back and sewn to the back neckline; faced by the front facings and back neckline facing, which form the under collar.
Front: Wrap V-neck; the right front overlaps the left and the fronts are secured together at the lower edge of the bodice. Darts on the upper fronts. A decorative button on the front waistband.
Back: Upper back with darts, back waistband in two halves, centre back seam.
Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam between two marks.
Waist: Straight waistbands sewn between bodice and skirt, front in one piece, back in two.
Skirt: Lower front cut on the fold and lower back in two pieces, each with inverted pleats stitched into the waist seam.
Finishing: Armholes bound with self-fabric bias binding 4 cm wide, folded in half and topstitched along the fold; hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A cut-on collar with a centre back seam and a faced edge, a wrap bodice, inverted pleats, bias-bound armholes and a concealed zipper.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing)
- Concealed zipper
- 1 decorative button
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Front Waistband – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Back pieces and press them towards the center. Stitch the Back Waistband to the Upper Back, press the allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Form and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Back. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the hem, press the allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper between the marks.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Front pieces, press them towards the center, trim to 1 cm and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder seams, clipping the shoulder seam allowance on the front, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the center back seam of the collar (cut in one with the Upper Front), press the allowances open. Stitch the collar to the back neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings, clip at the corner and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances towards the collar. Overlock the outer edge of the facings.
- Place the facings on the dress, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and the outer edge of the collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar to the right side, straighten seams, and press. Secure the collar attachment allowances together. Overlap the right front over the left and secure at the lower edge.
- Stitch the Front Waistband to the upper front, press the allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Form and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Front. Stitch the upper front to the Lower Front, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the right side of the armhole, raw edges aligned, leaving tails, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the decorative button onto the Front Waistband.
