Short Sleeve Sheath Dress with Front Pleats

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; concealed zipper; lining fabric. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical parts).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper center back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper side back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Upper side front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the corresponding pieces.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast.
3. Stitch the darts on the lower back parts, press dart depths towards the center of the pieces. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the lower edge, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
5. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast.
6. Form pleats on the lower front part. Depths are directed towards the side edges. Secure the pleats along the upper edge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together. Overcast the seam allowance and press upwards.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings. Press seam allowances open. Place the facing on the main garment, right sides together, and stitch the neckline. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press the neckline. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and the zipper tape.
9. Form a box pleat on the sleeve and secure it along the upper edge. Stitch the sleeve and lining seams, press seam allowances open. Place the lining on the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch the lower edge, clip seam allowances. Turn the lining to the wrong side and press the sleeve hem. Secure the sleeves at the cap, then treat as one piece. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
10. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.