Elbow Sleeve Dress with High-Low Overlay

Name: Elbow Sleeve Dress with High-Low Overlay
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2549
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2549

A women's two-layer dress: a sleeveless, darted sheath underdress with a loose chiffon overlay on top that is shorter at the front and longer at the back. The sleeves belong to the overlay and are gathered with elastic at the hem; both layers close together with one invisible zipper at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: underdress: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres with added elastane.

Tech. Description

Elbow Sleeve Dress with High-Low Overlay

When To Wear

In spring and summer, when a sheer layer over a plain dress suits warm weather.
For daytime events and family celebrations, worn on its own without a jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, straight underdress with darts on the front and back; the overlay hangs loose from the shoulders and flares towards the hem.

Length: Underdress to about the knee; overlay hem curves down from the front to the back, where it covers more of the underdress.

Neckline: Round, the two layers basted together and finished with an interfaced facing.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves cut from the overlay fabric, hem turned twice by 1 cm to form a casing for elastic, giving a gathered, puffed lower edge.

Back: Centre back seam in both layers; the overlay and underdress are joined along it and the invisible zipper is set through both.

Finishing: The overlay is basted to the underdress at the neckline and armholes; hems pressed under and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Handling chiffon, joining two layers at the neckline, armholes and centre back, an invisible zipper through both layers, an elastic casing.

Fabric Recommendations

Underdress: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres with added elastane. Overlay and sleeves: chiffon in a matching or toning colour.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (neckline facings)
Invisible zipper
Elastic tape for the sleeve casings

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical parts). When stitching parts, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 1 piece on fold
Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces

From chiffon (overlay):

Upper Front – 1 piece on fold
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Front Neckline Facing and Back Neckline Facing pieces.
Stitch the darts on the Back pieces, press them towards the center. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark down to the hem. Press the allowances open.
Stitch the darts on the Front. Press them upwards.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the Front and Back. Press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
Clip the allowance at the zipper mark on the Upper Back pieces. Overlock the center back edges separately (4 sections in both layers). Stitch the center back seam of the overlay from the zipper mark down to the hem. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the Upper Front and Upper Back pieces. Press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
Place the overlay on the right side of the underdress and baste them together along the neckline and armhole edges. Baste the overlay and the underdress together along the center back edges. Insert the invisible zipper.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the Front Neckline Facing and Back Neckline Facing pieces. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facing on the dress right side down and stitch around the neckline. Clip the allowances, notch them at the corners, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Tack the center back allowances of the facing to the zipper tape.
Stitch the Sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press it towards the back. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock the allowance and press. Turn the sleeve hem allowance twice by 1 cm to the inside and topstitch, forming a casing. Thread the elastic through the casing, adjust the length and secure the ends.
Overlock the hem edges of the underdress and the overlay. Press the allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.