Fitted Coat Dress with Notched Contrast Lapels

Name: Fitted Coat Dress with Notched Contrast Lapels
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2508
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2508

A women's knee-length coat dress with an asymmetric, off-centre fastening, a notched collar and lapels cut from contrast fabric, and a centre back vent. Shaped with bust and waist darts at the front and princess seams at the back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Coat Dress with Notched Contrast Lapels

When To Wear

For the office and daytime events, worn as a dress on its own.
In spring and autumn, when long sleeves and a closed front are wanted.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist, straight below the hips.

Length: Knee length.

Collar: Notched collar and lapels; the collar and the front facings, which form the lapels, are cut from trim fabric in a contrasting or related colour.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves.

Front: Wrap-style front with an off-centre edge, fastened with three buttons and one hidden button; bust darts and waist darts.

Back: Centre back and side back panels joined by princess seams from the armhole; centre back seam with a vent at the hem.

Finishing: Front facings and back neck facing interfaced; hems of the garment and sleeves finished with blind stitches.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A notched collar set between the garment and the facing, a lapel stitched to a mark and clipped, a back vent, and set-in sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres. For the collar and facings, a trim fabric in a contrasting or related colour.

Additional Supplies

Trim fabric for the collar and front facings
Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing, vent)
3 buttons
1 hidden button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm; vent allowance - 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center back - 2 pieces
Side back - 2 pieces
Front bodice - 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

From trim fabric:

Collar – 2 pieces
Front facing - 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Collar – 1 piece
Front facing - 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the left back piece, along the vertical edge of the vent, trim 5 cm. On both back pieces, from the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line. On the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
Stitch bust and waist darts on the front bodice. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts towards the center.
Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark, turn collar right side out, shape and press.
Place the front facing and front bodice right sides together and stitch the front edge and lapel up to the mark. Clip allowances at the mark, turn pieces right side out, shape, and press.
Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge outer edges.
Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the garment, and the upper collar to the neckline of the facing, press allowances open, secure them together. Secure the shoulder seams of the front facings to the shoulder seams of the garment.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the hidden button.