Midi Hooded Pleated Coat
Presenting a women's sewing pattern for an elegant midi hooded coat, distinguished by its fitted bodice, full-length zipper, and beautifully flared skirt with structured pleats.
When To Wear
This elegant hooded coat is perfect for adding sophistication and warmth to a variety of occasions:
- Formal & Casual Outings: Suitable for both elegant events and stylish everyday wear in cooler seasons.
- Transitional Weather: Ideal for crisp autumn days or mild winter temperatures, offering comfort and style.
- Statement Outerwear: a refined piece designed to elevate any ensemble with its flattering silhouette and thoughtful details.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: An a-line silhouette, fitted through the bust and waist, gracefully flares into a full skirt at a midi length.
Neckline: Features a comfortable and stylish attached hood.
Closure: a full-length detachable zipper secures the center front opening.
Sleeves: Long, classic set-in sleeves provide a tailored finish.
Pockets: Discreet side seam pockets are integrated into the design for practicality.
Bodice: Contoured with flattering princess seams on both the front and back for a shaped fit.
Skirt: The flared skirt section is enhanced with inverted pleats on both the front and back, adding volume and movement.
Hem: Finishes at a versatile midi length, offering elegant coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in setting zippers, working with pleats, assembling a multi-piece hood, and precise seam finishes.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose coating fabrics with some body and drape, suitable for outerwear:
- Raincoat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Detachable zipper
- Small shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. On the lower back, create and secure a box pleat. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. On the lower front, create and secure a box pleat. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Fold the front pieces right sides together and align the edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front (teeth facing away from the center).
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
- Attach pocket bags to the back and front. Stitch side seams simultaneously with the pocket bag, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Attach the side parts of the hood to the center, press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Fold the hood facings right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Turn the facing right side out, shape, press. Attach the outer of the facing to the hood, press seam allowances towards the facing. Fold the seam allowance of the inner of the facing inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing attachment. Insert the hood into the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Fold the front facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and back neckline. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the front facings to the wrong side, shape and press. Secure to the garment at the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge. Attach shoulder pads.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Serge the inner edge. Place the placket on the front (fold facing away from the edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Turn the placket over, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the attachment seam.
