Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 5 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 2 pieces
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 1 piece
- Upper center front – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Front waistband – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Attach the back waistband to the upper part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the bust darts on the front, press the dart excess upwards. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper front, press seam allowances to the left side and serge.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Attach the front waistband to the upper part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge.
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible interfacing. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Serge the middle and lower sides of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the front skirt and topstitch. Secure the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt edges.
- Stitch the center seam of the front lower part, press seam allowances to the left side and serge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons on the skirt according to markings.
