Maxi Tunic Shirt with Concealed Placket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons; lining fabric. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 2 pieces
  • Back - 1 piece with fold
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Fly placket lining – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Fly placket lining – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Create a box pleat on the back. Along the inner folds of the pleat, stitch a securing line 0.2 cm from the edge. Secure the pleat at the upper edge. Stitch the lower edge of the back yokes, placing them right sides together and inserting the back piece between them. Fold the yokes upwards and press. Continue to treat as one piece.
3. Mark and stitch the bust darts on the front, press the dart allowances upwards.
4. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge. Serge the side seams separately, stitch the seams from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Topstitch along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge.
5. Mark the button placket opening on the right front facing (right side of the garment): the first line is parallel to the placket edge and runs 1.5 cm from the finished placket edge; the second and third lines define the length of the placket. Place the interfaced lining piece on the right side of the front facing, right side down, in the direction from the placket edge, aligning the edge of the lining piece with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the placket opening up to the lines defining the placket length. Place the second placket lining piece butt-to-butt with the stitching line of the first lining piece and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the hole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the placket opening. Turn the lining pieces through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced lining, equal to the width between the stitch lines. Topstitch along the seam line of the lining attachment. Press the second lining piece towards the inner edge of the placket and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and overcast buttonholes. Buttonholes are overcast on the front facing together with the interfaced lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the placket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the lining pieces. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the front facing. Trim excess lining.
6. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press allowances open. Serge the outer edges.
8. Place the front facing and neckline facing on the right side of the main garment, secure at the seams and stitch, inserting the collar. Turn the front facing and neckline facing to the wrong side and press the plackets. Topstitch securing lines along the fly placket.
9. Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Secure allowances along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and serge. Create and secure pleats on the sleeve. Press pleat depths towards the seam.
10. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
11. Fold the hem of the garment inwards and topstitch.
12. Overcast a buttonhole on the right collar stand, sew a button on the left. Overcast buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs. Sew buttons on the left front placket.