Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; 6 buttons; decorative piping (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece).
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the vest bottom 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket welt – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Pocket welt – 4 pieces
ATTENTION: The front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment.
- Stitch the back princess seams, inserting decorative piping. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, inserting decorative piping, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Mark the pocket placement on the front. Fold the pocket welts in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket welt for stitching it parallel to the fold. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper welt. Stitch the welts to the front, aligning the folds butt-to-butt. Cut the front in the middle between the welt stitching lines. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the welts so that the pressed folds meet butt-to-butt. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the angles. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the lower welt. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the vest.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings.
- Fold the front facings and front right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower rounded corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the facings right side out, straighten seams, press.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Stitch the armhole with lining in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
- Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the garment. Turn the vest through the opening. Close the opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
