Belted Tunic
A hip-length women's tunic with dropped shoulders, elbow-length sleeves and wide front bands that continue up into a collar. The front closes with a concealed button placket, and a separate tie belt gathers it at the waist.
When To Wear
- As a light jacket over a fine top or blouse with narrow trousers in spring and autumn.
- Belted over slim trousers or a pencil skirt for work.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight and loose, drawn in at the waist by the belt; hip length.
Collar: Formed by the front bands, which run up the front edges and around the neck and are joined at the centre back. On one side the band seam has a stepped outline at chest level.
Sleeves: Elbow length, set into open armholes on a dropped shoulder line; the side seam and sleeve seam are stitched in one.
Closure: Concealed placket in the right inner band: five buttonholes worked through the band and its interfaced placket lining, with bar tacks between the buttonholes; the buttons are sewn on the left front.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Waist: Separate tie belt cut on the fold, stitched and turned.
Finishing: Bands interfaced and turned; hems of the body and sleeves turned up 3.5 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A concealed button placket built into the band, bands with corners stitched to the body, sleeves set into open armholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (outer front bands, one placket lining)
- 5 buttons
- Lining fabric (for the concealed placket)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem and sleeve hem allowance – 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Center Edge – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece (cut on fold; tie belt)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front Center Edge – 2 pieces
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the outer Front Center Edge pieces and to one Hidden Button Placket Lining.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Mark the placket opening on the right side of the right inner Front Center Edge: the first line runs parallel to the front edge, 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines mark the length of the placket. Place the interfaced Hidden Button Placket Lining on the right side of the band, right sides together, extending away from the front edge, aligning the cut edge of the lining with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the opening up to the lines marking its length. Place the second Hidden Button Placket Lining edge to edge with the first lining's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from each end of the opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced lining equal to the width between the stitching lines. Stitch in the ditch of the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the band and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and work the buttonholes through the band together with the interfaced lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the placket from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners. Stitch the lining edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the inner band. Trim excess lining.
- Stitch the center back collar seams of the inner and outer Front Center Edge pieces, press allowances open. Place the outer and inner bands right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip the allowances, turn the inner band to the inside and press.
- Stitch the bands to the Front and Back, clipping the allowances at the corners. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the garment.
- Set sleeves into open armholes. Overlock allowances and press towards the sleeve. Stitch side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the Waistband (tie belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch along the long and short sides, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Sew the opening closed.
- Sew buttons onto the left front.
