Belted Tunic

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO, YOU WILL NEED: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons; lining fabric. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 4 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece with fold
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Fly placket lining – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Fly placket lining – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
3. Mark the buttonhole slit on the right inner front facing's right side with lines: the first line is parallel to the facing line and runs 1.5 cm from the finished edge of the facing; the second and third lines define the length of the buttonhole. Place the interfaced lining face down on the right side of the facing, aligning the cut edge of the lining with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the buttonhole slit up to the lines defining its length. Place the second buttonhole lining flush with the first lining's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the buttonhole slit. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced lining equal to the width between the stitching lines. Topstitch in the ditch of the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the facing and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and overcast the buttonholes. Buttonholes are overcast on the facing together with the interfaced lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the buttonhole from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners. Stitch the lining edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the inner facing. Trim excess lining.
4. Stitch the center seams of the collar on the inner and outer facing pieces, press allowances open. Fold the outer and inner facings right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn the inner facing out and press.
5. Attach the facings to the front and back, clipping allowances at corners. Overcast allowances. Press allowances towards the main part.
6. Set sleeves into open armholes. Overcast allowances and press towards the sleeve. Stitch side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Overcast allowances and press towards the back.
7. Overcast the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
8. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, stitch along the long and short sides, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Sew the opening closed.
9. Sew buttons onto the left front.