Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: medium-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: knit fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm; allowance for long edges of bridge and ties – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Armhole ruffle - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Bridge - 1 piece
- Tie - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on front pieces, press allowances upwards.
- Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge. Stitch upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the bridge lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Process the ties in the same way.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open, serge outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together and stitch the neckline edge, inserting the bridge at the front and the ties at the back. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the shoulder seams.
- Serge the outer edge of the armhole ruffle, press to the wrong side and topstitch. (Alternatively, it can be finished with a narrow rolled hem, after trimming the allowance). Attach the ruffle to the armhole of the back and front, press allowances towards the main garment and serge. Stitch a securing seam 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
