Cropped Short Sleeve Lapel Jacket

Name: Cropped Short Sleeve Lapel Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2419
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2419

A women's cropped, waist-length jacket with notched lapels, an open front without fastenings and short set-in sleeves. Princess seams shape the front and back; the jacket is fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cropped Short Sleeve Lapel Jacket

A women's cropped, waist-length jacket with notched lapels, an open front without fastenings and short set-in sleeves. Princess seams shape the front and back; the jacket is fully lined.

When To Wear

Over a sheath dress or a slip dress in late spring and summer.
With high-waisted trousers or a skirt and a fitted top for the office.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Cropped to the waist.

Collar: Notched collar with lapels: the under collar is set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. A 1 cm fusible stay tape runs along the lapel roll line.

Sleeves: Short, above the elbow, one-piece with an underarm seam; the sleeve cap is eased into the armhole.

Front: Edge-to-edge open front with no buttons, faced with interfaced front facings.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, with an interfaced back neckline facing.

Finishing: Shoulder pads; jacket and sleeve hems turned up 2.5 cm.

Lining: Full lining in the body and sleeves, cut from the main pieces minus the facings, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A notched collar with lapels attached in two layers, set-in sleeves with eased caps, a fully bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, 1 cm stay tape for the roll line)
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm; jacket hem allowance – 2.5 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 2.5 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Note: front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing.
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Reinforce pieces with fusible interlining. Along the lapel roll line on the front pieces, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interlining).
Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
Place the Upper Collar on the Lower Collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.
Sew the Lower Collar into the jacket neckline, and the Upper Collar into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowance towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
Press up the hem of the sleeve and jacket to the wrong side.
Stitch lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Attach lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve.
Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.