Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing, concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front upper part – 1 piece on fold
- Front inner part – 1 piece on fold
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front inner part – 1 piece on fold
- Back – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the front facing with fusible interfacing. Interface the pocket opening area of the front upper part.
- Overlock the inner edge of the front facing. Place the front upper part and the facing right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the edge.
- Stitch the dart on the front upper part, trim the depth to 1 cm and press towards the center. Stitch the diagonal shaped seam of the front.
- Overlock the pocket bag along the outer edge from the center to the lower mark. Fold the front upper part down, place the pocket bag right side down on the front, align along the diagonal shaped seam and stitch. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Topstitch from the side seam to the beginning of the pocket opening.
- Clip the seam allowances along the dart, stopping 5 cm from the apex. Stitch the darts and shaped seam on the inner front and front lining. Trim the dart depth to 1 cm.
- Place the front upper part right side up on the right side of the inner front. Stitch the pocket bags along the marked lines. Overlock the lower edge of the inner part, simultaneously overlocking the pocket bag. Secure the pieces along the side edges. Then treat as one piece.
- Place the front and front lining right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the seam allowances, turn to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the darts on the back and back lining. Press the depths towards the center. Overlock the lower edge of the back lining. Place the back and back lining right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the seam allowances. Turn the lining to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the side seams of the main fabric and lining. Overlock and press open the seam allowances.
- Finish the armhole with the lining. Clip the seam allowances, turn the lining to the wrong side and press. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front pieces between the main fabric and lining of the back.
- Overlock the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press open the seam allowances. Insert the zipper.
- Overlock the hem allowance, fold to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
