Inset Front Hoodie Jacket
A women's hip-length hooded knit jacket with a separating zipper, an inset central front panel that runs from the hood seam down the front, and a drawstring casing in the seam between the upper and lower body. Long sleeves finished with rib knit cuffs.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a T-shirt, with jeans or joggers.
- For walks and travel, in fleece or French terry.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose upper body drawn in at the waist by a cord, with a short flared lower part below the casing.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Two-piece hood with a centre seam, edge turned in and topstitched, set into the neckline and enclosed by the central front panel.
Sleeves: Long, set-in, with folded rib knit cuffs stretched slightly when attached.
Front: Upper front, central front, inner front and lower front pieces; the facing encloses the separating zipper, which is topstitched along its length.
Back: Upper and lower back, each cut on the fold.
Waist: Casing stitched across the front and back and caught into the seam joining the upper and lower parts; decorative cord threaded through.
Finishing: Hem turned up 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A layered front with an inset panel, a separating zipper set between the front and facing, a hood enclosed in the neckline seam and a casing set into a horizontal seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Dense knit fabric with medium or low stretch, made from natural or blended fibres: French terry, fleece. Rib knit or high-stretch knit for the cuffs.
Additional Supplies
- Separating zipper
- Decorative cord
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back - 1 piece on fold
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Central front – 2 pieces
- Inner front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece on fold
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- From rib knit fabric:
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the outer side of the central to the upper front. Press the seam allowance towards the central. Overlock the longitudinal inner seam allowance.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the upper front and back parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the back.
- Stitch the hood seam. Overlock the seam allowances and press them to the left side. Overlock the outer edge, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Insert the hood into the neckline, enclosing it with the central front. Overlock the seam allowance and press.
- Stitch the inner front to the inner edge of the central front, placing right sides together. Start the stitching from the top, strictly from the marked seam line for finishing the upper edge of the inner.
- Stitch the side seams of the lower front and back parts. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the back. Overlock the short sides of the casing, fold and topstitch. Place the casing right side down on the markings of the front and back and topstitch. Fold the casing upwards and press. Secure the upper edges and continue to treat as one piece.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the hoodie. Overlock the seam allowance and press downwards.
- Overlock the inner edges of the facings. Fold back the central front and place the facing on the inner and lower front parts. Stitch the edges, inserting the separating zipper. Stitch the upper edge. Clip the seam allowances at the corner and turn the facings to the wrong side. Topstitch along the zipper. Secure the central and facings with a stitch in the seam of attaching the central.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press and overlock the seam allowance. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve, stretching it slightly. Overlock and press the seam. Insert the sleeves into the armholes, overlock and press the seam allowance.
- Overlock the hem allowance, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Thread the cord through the casing.
