Pleated Front Blouse with Band Collar

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on patterns are made on the right side!

1. Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
2. Form and secure the box pleat on the back piece. Stitch the yoke to the back, press seam allowances up and serge.
3. Mark the cut line on the front (mark with a circle at the end), cut. Cut a bias binding for finishing the front slit, with a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm and a width of 5 cm. Press the binding in half lengthwise, right side out. Lay the front flat along the cut line, place the binding on the right side, aligning raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the binding to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
4. Stitch the bust dart, press the fullness upwards. Form and secure the pleats on the front (fullness directed away from the center).
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the open raw edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Serge sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
8. Place cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
9. Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
10. Serge a buttonhole and sew a button on the collar stand. Serge buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons.