Drapey Blouse with Pleated Flying Detail

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (silk, chiffon, satin). YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 1 invisible zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Allowance for the vertical edge of the flying detail – 2 cm. Hem allowance of the flying detail – 1.2 cm. Hem allowance of the lining – 0 cm. Hem allowance of the garment – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Flying detail – 1 piece
  • Back lining – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 1 piece on fold

Sewing Instructions

1. Serge the center edges of the back separately. Stitch the center edge from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press the seam allowance open. Insert the zipper.
2. Fold the vertical edge of the flying detail inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch. Press the edge. Serge the bottom edge. Fold inwards and topstitch. Create a box pleat on the flying detail and secure it along the neckline edge.
3. Place the flying detail on the front and secure it along the shoulder and side edges. Stitch the shoulder edges, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the side edges, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
4. Serge the center edges of the back lining separately. Stitch the center edge from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press the seam allowance open. Stitch the shoulder edges. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the side edges. Serge the seam allowances and press them towards the back. Serge the bottom edge.
5. Place the main garment and lining right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn the lining to the wrong side and press. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Clip and press the seam allowances.
6. Attach the lining to the zipper tape.
7. Serge the hem allowance, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.