Pinafore Dress with Buckle Straps
A women's sleeveless pinafore dress with a square neckline, back straps that fasten through buckles on the front, a two-button opening at each side and slanted single-welt pockets. Centre front seam with a slit at the hem.
When To Wear
- Over a blouse, shirt or fine jumper in autumn, winter and spring.
- Over a T-shirt in warm weather, for everyday and casual office wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, shaped by bust darts on the front.
Length: Around the knee.
Neckline: Square at front and back, finished with shaped facings.
Closure: Straps are cut in one with the back and pass through buckles stitched to short front straps, also cut in one with the front. Each side opens above the waist and closes with two buttons, with buttonholes on the front and a placket facing.
Pockets: Two slanted single-welt pockets on the front, with pocket bags in lining fabric.
Front: Centre front seam, open below a mark to form a slit at the hem, topstitched 0.1 cm along the slit.
Back: Centre back seam.
Finishing: Armholes bound with 4 cm bias binding folded in half; hem serged, turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, facings with cut-on straps, a buttoned side opening with a placket facing and bias-bound armholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (neckline facings, welts, placket facings, slit area, buttonhole area)
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- 2 buckles
- 4 buttons
- Bias binding 4 cm wide (or cut from the main fabric)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: hem allowance - 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Front placket facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt
- Front placket facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the area near the front slit mark. Interface the area for buttonholes on the front piece.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the bust dart on the front, press the fullness upwards. Overlock the center front edges separately. Stitch the center front seam from the top to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch along the slit at 0.1 cm.
- Overlock the side edges of the back. Overlock the outer edge of the integrated placket facing. Turn the facing to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Clip the front allowance at the side placket mark. Overlock the side edges of the front from the placket mark to the hem. Overlock the outer and lower edges of the front facing. Stitch the placket facing to the front. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Stitch the side seams from the placket mark to the hem. Press seam allowances towards the front.
- Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the front armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip allowances, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Similarly, finish the back armhole.
- Place the outer facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch. Press the allowance towards the facing. Place the inner and outer facings right sides together and stitch the neckline and the integrated strap area from the armhole side. Clip allowances, turn to the right side, and press. Fold the allowance of the inner facing inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing. Overlock the upper edge of the integrated front strap. Thread the buckle onto the strap and secure with machine stitching.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side. Stitch the center seams of the back facings. Press seam allowances open.
- Place the outer facing on the back, right sides together, and stitch. Press the allowance towards the facing. Place the inner and outer facings right sides together and stitch the back neckline and the integrated strap. Clip allowances, trim corners, turn to the right side, and press. Fold the allowance of the inner facing inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer facing.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the front. Sew buttons onto the back. Thread the strap through the buckle and secure it.
