Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin denim fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Top pocket allowance – 3 cm. All other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Form a box pleat on the back. Stitch the back yoke to the back. Overlock the allowance and press it upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the pocket along the contour. Fold the top edge to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the left front according to the markings and topstitch.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the plackets. Press the allowance open. Fold the plackets in pairs right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom corner, inserting the collar. Topstitch along the edge of the placket.
- Stitch the outer edge of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket attachment.
- Overlock the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Secure allowances along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment seam. Turn the piece right side out and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and ties, fold inwards and topstitch. Alternatively, you can finish with bias binding; for this, you need to trim the allowance.
- Make buttonholes on the right placket, sew buttons on the left. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs. Sew buttons through the collar.
