Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; small shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 2 pieces
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the lower back, create and secure a box pleat. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place front facings onto the garment right sides together and stitch the front wrap and back neckline. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side, smooth out and press. Secure to the garment at shoulder seams and center back seam.
- Overlap the right upper front part over the left, aligning center lines, and secure at the lower edge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances downwards, serge.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge sleeve edges separately. Stitch sleeve seam from armhole to mark, press allowances open. Serge the lower edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch, forming a casing. Set sleeves into armholes, easing the sleeve cap at the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Cut two strips 2.5 cm wide and 50 cm long at a 45° angle for ties. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold. Turn the strip right side out and smooth the tie. Turn raw edges inwards and stitch. Insert ties into sleeve casings.
