Asymmetric Zip Pocket Knit Tunic
A women's straight, long tunic in low-stretch knit with princess-seamed front, a long decorative zipper set into the left princess seam, a patch pocket with a short decorative zipper along its top edge, and an invisible zipper in the centre back seam.
When To Wear
- At the office in autumn and winter, over leggings or slim trousers.
- For everyday wear with ankle boots or flat shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, long tunic with set-in sleeves.
Neckline: Round neckline finished with interfaced front and back facings.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves; hem turned up 2 cm and sewn by hand with blind stitches.
Front: Centre front cut on the fold with darts, joined to two side fronts by princess seams. The decorative zipper is stitched into part of the left princess seam, the rest of the seam is closed below it.
Pockets: Patch pocket with a short decorative zipper topstitched along the top edge, sewn on the front by the markings.
Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam and an invisible zipper at the top.
Finishing: The centre front has a cut-on, interfaced hem sewn by hand with blind stitches. The rest of the hem is finished with an interfaced hem facing cut on the fold, stitched along the bottom and side edges, turned and topstitched on its inner edge.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An exposed zipper in a princess seam, a zipped patch pocket, an invisible zipper and a faced hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Low-stretch knit fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Knit fusible interfacing (facings, cut-on hem of the centre front)
- Invisible zipper (centre back)
- Long decorative zipper (princess seam)
- Short decorative zipper (pocket)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Center front - 1 piece on fold
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 1 piece
- Bottom facing - 1 piece on fold
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Bottom facing - 1 piece on fold
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the facings and the integrated hem allowance of the center front piece.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Stitch the darts on the center front piece, press dart depths upwards.
- Serge the princess seams of the center front piece. Serge the princess seams of the side front pieces. Place the zipper right side down onto the right side of the left center front piece, aligning edges, and stitch. Place the zipper right side down onto the right side of the left side front piece, aligning edges, and stitch. Stitch the remaining section of the princess seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the right princess seam of the front, press seam allowances open.
- Serge the pocket perimeter. Press side and bottom edges to the wrong side. Place the zipper on the top edge and topstitch. Topstitch the pocket with the zipper onto the front according to markings.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out. Secure the facing to the garment at shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches, press seam allowances and serge. Serge the hem allowance of the sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with invisible stitches.
- Serge the integrated hem allowance of the center front bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with invisible stitches.
- Press the inner edge of the bottom facing to the wrong side. Place the bottom facing with the garment right sides together and stitch along the bottom and side edges. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten corners, press. Topstitch to the main garment along the inner side.
