Tailored Double-Breasted A-line Coat

Name: Tailored Double-Breasted A-line Coat
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2177
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2177

A women's knee-length A-line coat with princess seams front and back, a wide collar cut in one with the fronts, a double-breasted two-button front and two-piece set-in sleeves with a topstitched band at the hem. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coating fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Tailored Double-Breasted Coat

When To Wear

In autumn and spring over dresses, skirts and trousers.
To the office over a suit or a knit dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist by princess seams, flaring to an A-line hem.

Length: Just above the knee.

Collar: Wide lapel collar cut in one with the centre fronts and joined at a centre back collar seam; the facing collar is cut with the upper front facing and set into the back neckline facing. Front edges and collar topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve with elbow and front seams) with a separate sleeve inset at the lower edge of the upper sleeve, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Closure: Double-breasted, two large buttons on the left front and a buttonhole on the right front, plus an inner button and buttonhole holding the underlap.

Front: Centre front and side front pieces joined by princess seams; facing in two parts, upper and lower.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces minus the facings, with lining sleeves; the coat is turned through an opening in the right sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a cut-on collar with a centre back seam, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, a fully bagged lining and machine buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Coating fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, back neckline facing, upper and lower front facings)
2 large buttons
1 inner button
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the coat bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Upper and Lower Center Front Facing.

Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the front facings and the Back Neckline Facing.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
On the back, stitch the darts. Press the darts towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open.
On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances towards the center.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat. Clip the allowance into the corner at the shoulder seam. Stitch the center back collar seam. Press the allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, at the same time stitching the collar into the back neckline.
Stitch the Sleeve Inset to the Upper Sleeve. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve head rolls.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the center back collar seam of the Upper Center Front Facing pieces, then stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowances at the corners and stitching the facing collar into the back neckline facing. Press the allowances open. Stitch the lining to the front facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
Join the Upper and Lower Center Front Facing pieces. Press the allowances open. Place the facings on the coat, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges, collar and hem. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Tack the neckline seam allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Close the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
Make a buttonhole on the right front. Sew the buttons to the left front. Make the inner buttonhole and sew on the inner button.